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MJW Overview 2020: Heimat ou les Ritournelles de Monika Brugger

For this year’s Munich Jewellery Week, we are looking back on the past five fabulous years of MJW with 20/20 vision. In the years that Current Obsession has been a part of this celebration of contemporary jewellery’s diverse perspectives, we have come to know and love so many of you – not only for your forever-fascinating art, but also for the spark that each member of this international community brings to the table. We hold every venue, artist, instigator and jewel close to our hearts. This year, in an effort to dive a little deeper into the stories behind the shows, we are sharing some of the shows that we think exemplify this year’s thrilling MJW line-up, alongside a few mini-tidbits from the curators and artists that are making them happen. Here’s to all of you! And to the next 5, 10, and 100 years of Munich Jewellery Week.

Garnets ooze from the seams of Monika Brugger’s garments, seeping out like blood from the cracks of hands dried from clothes washing. Her shirts are soft, tender and solemn. They make you want to crawl inside of them, to place your chest in the gaping hole of her burned Brandmal ‘Schmück’ dress and to place your arm behind the seam of her Stichwunde, Geschenk der Näherin in order to stop the bleeding. They speak softly of violence and kindness, of scars and mending, of identification and ownership of one’s body, and of quiet endurance, both national and personal. Heimat ou les Ritournelles is a return to home, with all of the tenderness, cloying sweetness and hardship that may result.

the blackdress_collection© 12 + 1 dress for the seamstress Collection of 13 dresses, made from a unique pattern, built with a minimum of seams, on the shoulders and back with embroieries on the neckline, the shape of the armhole and the seam on the back. Antik Venice pearls ø 3 + 5 mm, garnets ø 2 - 6 mm, faceted garnets ø 2-3 mm, Bambou, cashmere, cotton, linnen, wool, cotton, red cotton theard Single size : FR 36 – 42 Photos : Corinne Janier Paris
Monika Brugger Stichwunde, Geschenk der Näherin (detail), 2007 Detail linen, grenats Jeu de dés, 2018 Earrings, Recovered thimbles, silver, red gold, grenats Photo : Corinne Janier Paris


What are the intentions of the exhibition in terms of the span of the work you will be showing, as well as presentation?


I will be exhibiting works that show the extent of my artistic investigations into the questions of both clothing and jewellery. 

The presentation will be a kind of echo to the place, to the move to make! And surely, I will take a humorous approach to the way that jewels will be – or are too often – presented! And you will come to the boutique de la Maison Monika Brugger!

Monika Brugger Fingerprints from M.B. A fleurs des doigts, since 2008 Rings Silver, gold Photo : Corinne Janier Paris


Could you tell me about the title and why you chose it?

Heimat is the word that upsets, the word that does not translate, the most complicated German word, but it shows the way I feel when I’m thinking of jewels. Les ritournelles are explained well by Laurence Verdier: 


Monika Brugger makes honey from these images by transforming them into jewellery and installations. To wander among the works of Monika is to seize these images – the cherries on the ears of a child, a bead of blood, flies in a summer garden – images which resonate in us so strongly they could be our own. A mischievous novelist who tickles the French language, playing with words, their meanings, their permeability with reality and the images they call to mind.’

Monika Brugger Mouche, 2018 Marlène et ses mouches, 2017 Copper, enamel Portrait Photo : Matthieu Gauchet, Paris
Monika Brugger Fingerhut, since 1992 Weddingring, 2008 Rings Silver, gold Photo : Corinne Janier Paris


Why do you think it’s important to show your work during MJW?

It is not so often that I can show my works in Germany (don’t forget, I speak French when I make my works, but I still have a German background). The occasion of MJW is also the moment where my colleagues are present, so it is the moment to show my works to the jewellery community.

Monika Brugger Fliegenschmuck, Les nouvelles vanités, since 2018 Earrings Shibushi, freshwater pearls, glass perles Photo : Corinne Janier Paris

This article was published in the online edition of Munich Jewellery Week 2020



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